Italian Lakes Road Trip from Milan Airport

Northern Italy’s lake district is a paradise of alpine waters, elegant villas, and subtropical gardens set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. This 7-day journey takes you through five of the region’s most beautiful lakes, each with its own distinct character and charm.

From the intimate, romantic atmosphere of Lago d’Orta to the glamorous shores of Lago di Como, you’ll experience the perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and la dolce vita. The itinerary even includes a brief foray into Switzerland at Lago di Lugano, adding an international flavour to your journey.

The driving distances between lakes are refreshingly short, typically less than an hour, giving you more time to enjoy each destination rather than spending hours on the road. I have spent my youth in this area, and still today I can’t miss a yearly trip there.

My personal tip: To save some Km, take the ferry from Verbania to Laveno instead of driving north around Lago Maggiore. You can also take the ferry from Bellagio to Varenna with your car and come back to Malpensa Airport through the other side of Lake Como

DAY 1: MILANO MALPENSA TO LAGO D’ORTA – First Impressions

After arriving at Milano Malpensa Airport and picking up your rental car, you’ll begin your journey to the smallest and perhaps most romantic of the Italian lakes: Lago d’Orta.

The drive from the airport to Orta San Giulio takes about 45 minutes and is relatively straightforward. As you leave behind the bustle of the Milan area, you’ll notice the landscape gradually becoming more picturesque, with the first glimpses of mountains appearing on the horizon. The approach to Lago d’Orta is particularly charming as you wind down toward the lake, with the road offering tantalising glimpses of blue water between the trees.

Orta San Giulio is the perfect introduction to the Italian Lakes region – smaller and less crowded than the towns of its larger neighbours, it has maintained an authentic, almost untouched atmosphere. The town’s car-free centre means you’ll need to park in one of the lots above the town (follow signs to “parcheggi”) and walk down, but this only adds to the charm as you descend into the medieval heart of the village.

The main square, Piazza Motta, opens beautifully onto the lake with views of the island (Isola San Giulio) that seems to float just offshore. Lined with cafés and restaurants under ancient porticoes, this square is the perfect place to begin your lake adventure.

Take a seat at one of the outdoor tables, order an espresso or a glass of local wine, and simply soak in the atmosphere. The buildings around the square are painted in warm Italian colours – ochres, terracottas, and soft yellows – creating a scene that feels almost too picturesque to be real.

For your first evening, I recommend a leisurely stroll along the lakefront promenade and through the narrow cobblestone streets that wind uphill from the main square. These medieval pathways are lined with artisan shops, small galleries, and hidden courtyards that reward curious explorers. The 12th-century Palazotto, the old town hall in the main square, is particularly beautiful in the evening light.

For dinner, avoid the most obvious tourist spots directly on the main square and instead try one of the restaurants tucked away on the side streets. I particularly love Al Boeuc, a small family-run place serving traditional Piedmontese cuisine. Their risotto al Nebbiolo (made with local red wine) is exceptional, as are any of their lake fish dishes.

My suggested accommodation in Orta San Giulio: B&B Al Dom

My personal tip: Before dinner, walk up to the Sacro Monte church for sunset. Even if you don’t visit the chapels (which you’ll do tomorrow), the view from this elevated position as the sun sets behind the mountains, casting golden light across the lake, is absolutely magical and far less crowded than during daytime hours.

DAY 2: LAGO D’ORTA – Island Magic and Sacred Mountains

Dedicate today to exploring the treasures of Lago d’Orta at a relaxed pace. After breakfast at your hotel or at one of the cafés in Piazza Motta, head uphill to visit the Sacro Monte di Orta, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This “sacred mountain” features 20 chapels built between the 16th and 18th centuries, dedicated to the life of St. Francis of Assisi. Each chapel contains life-sized terracotta statues and frescoes depicting scenes from the saint’s life.

What makes this sacred mountain particularly special is its setting – the chapels are scattered through a beautiful woodland park on the hill above town, offering peaceful walks and occasional stunning views of the lake below.

The artistic quality of the statues and frescoes is remarkable, bringing to life the story of St. Francis in a uniquely immersive way. Take your time wandering from chapel to chapel, enjoying the tranquillity and artistry of this special place.

After descending back to town, it’s time to visit the jewel of Lago d’Orta: Isola San Giulio. Small boats depart regularly from the embarcadero (dock) at Piazza Motta, and the journey takes just a few minutes. As you approach, you’ll see the island is dominated by the Romanesque basilica and a beautiful bell tower, with houses clustered around them.

The island is tiny – you can walk all the way around it in about 15 minutes via a pathway known as “the way of silence” (on the way there) and “the way of meditation” (on the way back). Signs encourage quiet contemplation as you walk, and the atmosphere is indeed hushed and reverent.

The basilica itself is worth spending time in – the interior is surprisingly ornate, with frescoes dating from the 14th to 19th centuries and an ancient pulpit carved from black marble.

For lunch, you can either eat at the single restaurant on the island, which has a lovely terrace, or return to Orta San Giulio, where you have more options. I recommend L’Approdo, right near the boat dock, for excellent lake fish and a perfect view back to the island.

In the afternoon, visit Villa Bossi, the town hall of Orta San Giulio, with its beautiful garden extending into the lake. If you’re interested in a longer excursion, drive to Omegna at the northern tip of the lake (about 15 minutes from Orta). This larger town has a more local, less touristy feel and a pleasant lakefront promenade.

For dinner on your second night, try Ristorante Venus on the western side of Orta’s main square. Book well in advance a table on their terrace for dinner with a view of the illuminated island – a truly romantic setting.

My personal tip: If you’re visiting between April and October, check if the gardens of Villa Caccia in nearby Ameno are open to visitors. This neo-classical villa, designed by Antonelli (the same architect who designed the famous Mole Antonelliana in Turin), has beautiful grounds and is rarely visited by tourists, offering a peaceful alternative if you find Sacro Monte too busy.

DAY 3: LAGO D’ORTA TO MERGOZZO AND STRESA – Three Lakes in One Day

Today you’ll say goodbye to Lago d’Orta, but not before visiting one more charming spot. After checking out of your accommodation, drive to the western shore of the lake to visit Pella, a small village that offers a different perspective of Orta San Giulio and the island across the water.

The morning light on the eastern shore is beautiful, and Pella’s quiet waterfront makes for a peaceful start to the day. If you’re interested in hiking, the sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso is a short but steep walk from Pella, offering spectacular panoramic views of the entire lake.

From Pella, drive west toward Lago di Mergozzo, a small gem that many tourists overlook. The route takes you through the scenic Strona Valley before descending to this tiny lake, which was once part of Lago Maggiore but became separated over time by river deposits.

The village of Mergozzo sits at the southern end of the lake and is absolutely charming. Its car-free historic centre features narrow cobblestone streets and traditional stone houses gathered around a small square. The centrepiece of the village is an ancient elm tree that’s over 600 years old – a beloved local landmark that has witnessed centuries of history.

Mergozzo is the perfect place for lunch and a swim. The lake has some of the cleanest water in Italy (it’s been awarded the “Five Sails” Blue Flag status for water quality), and there are several small beaches where you can take a refreshing dip. For lunch, try Ristorante Due Palme for excellent local cuisine – their lake fish is particularly good, especially the perch fillets served with sage and butter.

After lunch and perhaps a gelato from one of the shops near the waterfront, continue your journey to Stresa on Lago Maggiore, about a 25-minute drive. As you approach, you’ll be struck by the grandeur of this larger lake – Lago Maggiore is the second largest in Italy and extends north into Switzerland.

Stresa has been a popular resort since the early 19th century, and its elegant belle époque hotels along the lakefront promenade (lungolago) testify to its long history as a destination for European aristocracy. The town has a more refined, cosmopolitan feel than Orta, with grand hotels, manicured gardens, and views of the Borromean Islands that dot the lake just offshore.

After checking into your accommodation, take a stroll along the beautiful waterfront promenade. The views across to the islands and the mountains beyond are spectacular, especially in the golden light of late afternoon. The promenade is lined with cafés and gelaterias – perfect for an afternoon break.

For dinner, venture into the streets behind the lungolago to find more authentic and less touristy restaurants. Ristorante Pizzeria Mamma Mia may have a somewhat clichéd name, but it serves excellent food in a cosy setting and is popular with locals – always a good sign.

My suggested accommodation in Stresa: Un sogno sul lago

My personal tip: If you have time before dinner and enjoy botanical gardens, visit the grounds of Villa Pallavicino at the southern edge of Stresa. Less famous than the gardens you’ll see tomorrow on Isola Bella and Isola Madre, this park combines beautiful landscaped gardens with a small zoological garden featuring deer, peacocks, and other animals roaming in semi-freedom.

DAY 4: LAGO MAGGIORE – Island Hopping on the Borromean Islands

Today is dedicated to exploring the jewels of Lago Maggiore: the Borromean Islands. Named after the aristocratic Borromeo family, who still own them, these islands are among the highlights of any visit to the Italian Lakes.

Start your day early to make the most of your island-hopping adventure. Boats to the islands depart regularly from Stresa’s main dock, and you can purchase various ticket combinations depending on which islands you want to visit. I recommend the three-island ticket that includes Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori.

Begin with Isola Bella, the most dramatic of the three. What was once a barren rock was transformed in the 17th century into an extravagant baroque palace and garden. The approach by boat is stunning – you’ll see the palace and its theatrical terraced gardens rising from the lake like a stage set.

The palace interior is a showcase of baroque opulence, with richly decorated rooms featuring tapestries, paintings, and furniture. Don’t miss the grotto rooms on the lower level, decorated with black and white pebbles, shells, and marble – they were designed as a cool retreat during summer heat.

The gardens are the real star of Isola Bella – a series of ten terraces rising like a pyramid, adorned with statues, fountains, and rare plants. The famous white peacocks that roam freely add to the exotic atmosphere. The top terrace offers magnificent views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

Next, head to Isola Madre, the largest of the islands. While Isola Bella is all baroque formality, Isola Madre offers a more relaxed English-style garden covering the entire island. The botanical collection here is remarkable, with rare plants from around the world thriving in the lake’s microclimate. The palace is smaller than on Isola Bella but houses an interesting collection of puppet theatres and family mementoes.

For lunch, take the boat to Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen’s Island), the only one of the Borromean Islands with a permanent population. This charming island has retained its authentic character with narrow lanes lined by traditional fishermen’s houses. There are several restaurants along the waterfront – I recommend Ristorante Belvedere for its fresh fish and lake views.

After lunch, take some time to explore the tiny island before returning to Stresa in the late afternoon. If you’re interested in music, consider visiting Villa Toscanini in Stresa, where the famous conductor Arturo Toscanini lived and worked.

For dinner, treat yourself to a meal at one of Stresa’s more upscale restaurants. Il Vicoletto, tucked away in a side street, offers excellent northern Italian cuisine in an elegant but unpretentious setting.

My personal tip: The Borromean Islands get very busy during peak hours. To avoid the worst crowds, try to be on the first boat to Isola Bella in the morning (usually around 9 AM), and save Isola dei Pescatori for later in the afternoon when many day-trippers have already left.

DAY 5: STRESA TO LUGANO – From Italy to Switzerland

This morning, before leaving the Italian side of Lago Maggiore, visit the magnificent Villa Taranto Gardens in Verbania, about a 20-minute drive north of Stresa. Created in the 1930s by Scottish Captain Neil McEacharn, these botanical gardens are among the most important in Europe, with thousands of plant species from around the world arranged in themed gardens.

Spring is particularly spectacular when the tulips, azaleas, and rhododendrons are in bloom, but the gardens are designed to offer interest in all seasons. The dahlia maze in late summer and early fall is especially impressive. Take your time wandering through the terraced gardens, enjoying the fountains, ponds, and meticulously maintained plantings.

After your garden visit, begin your drive to Lugano. The route takes you north along Lago Maggiore and across the Swiss border. Have your passports ready for the border crossing, though checks are usually brief. The road then winds through the mountains before descending to Lago di Lugano, offering some spectacular views along the way.

Lugano is the largest city in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino and combines Swiss efficiency with Italian flair. The setting is stunning, with the lake framed by Monte San Salvatore and Monte Brè. After checking into your accommodation, head to the heart of the city – the elegant pedestrianised centre and the lakefront promenade.

Piazza della Riforma is the main square, lined with pastel-colored buildings and outdoor cafés. From here, explore the shopping streets like Via Nassa, known for its historic arcades and luxury boutiques. The lakefront promenade (Lungolago) offers beautiful views and is perfect for a leisurely stroll.

In the afternoon, take the funicular up Monte San Salvatore for panoramic views of the lake, city, and surrounding mountains. The 12-minute ride takes you to a height of 912 meters, where you’ll find viewing terraces and a small restaurant.

On clear days, you can see not only all of Lago di Lugano but also parts of Lago Maggiore and even the distant peaks of the Alps. The sunset from here is particularly beautiful, casting a golden glow over the lake and mountains.

Return to Lugano for dinner. The city offers an interesting blend of Swiss and Italian cuisine. For an authentic Ticinese experience, try Ristorante Arté al Lago, which serves innovative dishes featuring local ingredients with a spectacular lakeside setting.

My suggested accommodation in Lugano: Hotel Admiral

My personal tip: Swiss prices can be a shock after Italy, particularly for dining out. For a more budget-friendly option with authentic local flavor, look for a grotto – these traditional rustic restaurants serve simple Ticinese cuisine like polenta with braised meat, risotto, and local cheeses. Grotto Morchino, a short drive from the center, offers good food in a charming setting with lake views.

DAY 6: LUGANO TO COMO – Two Lakes in One Day

Start your day with a boat trip on Lago di Lugano. Regular services depart from the central dock and offer various routes. I recommend taking the boat to Gandria, a picturesque village that clings to the steep mountainside at the edge of the lake. The boat ride itself is beautiful, offering views of luxurious villas and lush gardens along the shoreline.

Gandria is a car-free village with narrow alleys and stairways winding between ancient stone houses. It feels frozen in time and offers a glimpse of what lake life was like before tourism. Take time to wander the steep lanes, perhaps stopping at a café for coffee with a view. If you’re interested in local history, the Swiss Customs Museum is located just outside the village and can be reached via the “Olive Path,” a pleasant lakeside walk.

Return to Lugano by boat and collect your car for the drive to Como. The route takes you through Porlezza at the eastern end of Lago di Lugano and then through the mountains before descending to Lago di Como. This scenic drive offers some spectacular viewpoints – watch for safe places to pull over and take photos as you get your first glimpses of Lago di Como.

Arrive in Como by early afternoon. This elegant city sits at the southern tip of the lake’s western branch and has been an important settlement since Roman times. Begin your exploration at the magnificent Cathedral (Duomo), which took nearly four centuries to complete and showcases a transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles. The façade is particularly impressive, with statues of Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger, Como’s famous Roman natives.

From the cathedral, wander through the historic centre with its charming squares and medieval streets. Como has been a centre of silk production since the 14th century, and the Museo della Seta (Silk Museum) offers a fascinating look at this traditional industry that still thrives today.

In the late afternoon, take the funicular from Como to Brunate, a small village perched 715 meters above the lake. The 7-minute journey offers increasingly spectacular views, and from Brunate itself, you can enjoy a panorama of the lake and the Alps beyond. If you’re feeling energetic, follow the trail to the lighthouse (Faro Voltiano) for even more impressive views.

Return to Como for dinner. The city offers excellent dining options, from traditional trattorias to innovative modern restaurants. Try Ristorante Sociale in the heart of the old town for classic Lombard cuisine in a historic setting – their risotto with perch is a local speciality that perfectly combines mountain and lake influences.

My suggested accommodation in Como: Albergo del Duca

My personal tip: Como is known for its silk, and there are several shops selling high-quality scarves, ties, and fabrics. For the best selection and direct-from-producer prices, visit the factory stores slightly outside the centre. Mantero and Ratti are two historic silk producers with outlet stores where you can find beautiful pieces at better prices than in the tourist shops.

DAY 7: COMO TO BELLAGIO TO MILANO MALPENSA – The Pearl of the Lake

For your final day, experience the most beautiful part of Lago di Como – the central section where the lake divides into two branches, creating a spectacular landscape of blue water against a backdrop of steep, forested mountains.

From Como, take the ferry to Bellagio. There are two types of boats – the slower regular ferry and the faster hydrofoil. I recommend the regular ferry at least one way, as it allows you to enjoy the scenery and see the magnificent villas that line the shores. The journey takes about 2 hours, passing villages like Cernobbio, Moltrasio, and Tremezzo with its famous Villa Carlotta.

You can also think of driving from Como to Bellagio, and in true honesty, the view that you will have from the coast road is equally beautiful. Just a warning, parking on weekends in Bellagio is very tight.

Bellagio, known as the “pearl of the lake,” sits at the tip of the promontory that divides the lake’s two southern branches. Its position couldn’t be more perfect, with panoramic views in multiple directions. The town rises steeply from the waterfront, with charming cobblestone stairways (known locally as salita) connecting the lakefront to the upper part of town.

After disembarking, take time to wander along the elegant lakefront promenade lined with hotels, restaurants, and shops. Then explore the picturesque lanes that climb up from the water, lined with boutiques, art galleries, and cafés. The atmosphere is undeniably romantic, with flowering balconies, hidden courtyards, and glimpses of the lake at every turn.

Visit the gardens of Villa Melzi, which extend along the lake shore just south of the town centre. Created in the early 19th century in the English landscape style, these gardens feature azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias, as well as Egyptian sculptures, a Japanese pond, and a neo-classical chapel. The villa itself is not open to the public, but the gardens alone are worth the entrance fee.

For lunch, avoid the most touristy spots directly on the waterfront and instead climb a little higher into town. Angolo DiVino offers excellent food with a more local atmosphere and reasonable prices considering the location.

In the afternoon, take a short ferry ride (with the car if driving) across to Varenna on the eastern shore. This fishing village is less crowded than Bellagio but equally charming, with a waterfront promenade aptly named the “Walk of Lovers” connecting the ferry dock to the village centre. Visit Villa Monastero, which houses a museum in the main building and has beautiful terraced gardens stretching along the lakefront.

From Varenna, it’s time to begin your journey back to Milano Malpensa. The drive takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes, first following the eastern shore of the lake before turning west toward the airport. Allow plenty of time for the return journey, as lakeside roads can be slow and traffic around Milan can be unpredictable.

My personal tip: If your flight schedule allows, make one last stop in Cernobbio to see Villa d’Este. Even if you don’t have time (or budget) to dine or stay at this ultra-luxury hotel, you can still admire the exterior and gardens from the public walkway along the lake. This Renaissance villa, with its famous floating swimming pool and magnificent terraced gardens, represents the height of Lake Como’s aristocratic heritage.

Italian Lakes 7-Day Road Trip: Timeline Table

Italian Lakes 5-Day Road Trip: Condensed Timeline